North Atlantic Skyline, despatches from the west of Ireland

Finvarra, The Burren, Co. Clare

As I drove up to the gatehouse of Skerrit House, which is at the edge of the road, two of the biggest rats I have ever seen were sitting in front of it. As I got out of the car, they looked at me with a worrying level of indifference before scampering into the thicket of briars along the wall beside the road.

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